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Freshly grated wasabi, nori seaweed bought at auction, ikejime fish preparation method…. It’s hard to believe that Nicolas Quer, a native of the Ria d’Etel, has never set foot in Japan! Five days a week, this son of a fisherman and self-taught shokunin delights customers with first-rate fish sourced from the local markets. The other evening, his omakase menu served around the blonde wood bar included: tofu tempura and dried bonito shavings to awaken the taste buds; excellent mackerel and bonito sashimi; a gourmet fatty tuna tataki; sublime brill, bass, gilt-head bream, bluefin tuna and salmon sushi atop pearly grains of rice; stunning sea bream and bluefin tuna maki; a sensual homemade miso soup; before a summery bed of strawberries and peaches topped with matcha ice cream. // M.R.

FEELING THIRSTY? Toasted rice tea (€3.50), Souben tokubetsu sake (€39 for 720 ml), an Alsace Pinot noir from Barmès-Buecher (€6 a glass), a Côtes-du-Roussillon white from Le Roc des Anges (€45 a bottle) or a Bouzeron from the Domaine de Villaine (€33).

PRICE: Menus €19-23 (lunch) and €22-65 (dinner), à la carte €19-65.

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