Queen Elizabeth can rest assured, the Franco-British accord is going strong at this former neighborhood dive that’s been given a classy country club makeover (sky blue leather banquettes, exotic wallpaper, hunting paintings). The ex-Semilla, Londoner chef Oliver Woodhead has raised the Union Jack at this Parisian spot, sending out Brexit classics along the way. The day we went, we had a light pea and mint soup; a nourishing pork shank pie; hearty lamb parmentier; and some nice sides to go along with all that – new potatoes with parslied butter, kale in vinaigrette, etc. For dessert: authentic shortbread with a lemon dipping cream, or a tasty rhubarb pavlova. // G.LeP.

FEELING THIRSTY? There are conventional, organic (a Côtes-Catalanes red from the Domaine Gardiès at €6.40 a glass) and natural wines (a very drinkable Tarn white from Laurent Cazottes at €36), along with a dozen familiar cocktails: vodka tonics (€11), Negronis (€12)…

PRICE: Set menus €19-22 (weekday lunch), à la carte €44-63.