La Vie en Rouge
If you don’t want to sign up for the annual boudin eating contest (an unmissable event in mid-March), you can always stick your snout into Philippe Ribaut’s very cushy restaurant, which is the supplier of fine foods for Parisians with a second home. In the window displays of his picturesque boutique with Third Republic mouldings (burgundy walls, rustic communal tables, woodwork), he lines up Setaro pasta, Duperier rillettes, Patrick Font fruit juices, Bellota cured hams, Qual’Italia porchetta, Beillevaire cheeses, etc. Take it to go or break bread in house! For us, the day we went: intense Don Bocarte anchovies with onions with virginal baby lettuce (€13); exalting Soumaintrain from the Berthaut cheese shop (€4 a slice); before a delightful slice of Basque cake from Pariès (€4). And to wash it all down? €4 for a glass of Bourgogne-Coulanges-la-Vineuse white from Vauthier, €5 for a full-bodied Occitan, Plein Chant de Pérot, or €25 for a bottle of Morgon from Benier. Plates €8-30, desserts €4. // G.D.