Calek, Carmarans, Oustric, Tortul… The crème de la crème of natural wine all seem to have found their way to this tiny tavern (multicolored mosaic floors, burgundy red banquettes) tucked away near the hyperactive Rue Saint-Denis. As for the food, the owner got the job done right the night we went: a very fresh shaved cucumber salad with trout roe and raw cream; slices of red kuri squash that were slightly overcooked but saved by a good smoked ricotta with crushed almonds; shredded pork with cumin-spiced hummus; before a runny chocolate lava cake. // G.LeP.

FEELING THIRSTY? A dozen of wines served by the glass (eg.: an Hérault red from La Sorga at €7) and around 20 wines served by the bottle – a Roussillon red from Jacques de Chancel (€34), an Arbois white from Jérôme Arnoux (€37), a Sicilian orange from Davide Bentivegna (€46)…

PRICE: Plates €6-14.