Much like its owners chef Franck Baranger (ex-Bristol) and Edouard Bobin, Le Pantruche is a spot that’s as reassuring as it is surprising. In appearance, it’s an old-fashioned bistro with Art Deco curves, mirror play, Moleskin benches, a paneled bar and copper footrests… And then, with no warning, dishes come out of the kitchen bursting with modernity! Like the day we went for lunch, on the €38 menu: stunning yellow pollack ceviche topped with turnip ribbons, almond milk and onion mousseline; duck breast with beetroot purée and braised fennel; before a wink to tradition with an irreproachable Grand Marnier soufflé with salted caramel, yum! To drink, there are judicious wines: a white Hautes-Côtes-de-Beaune from Montchovet (€6 a glass), a fruity red Bourgogne from Buisson (€8), an Alsace from Deiss (€40 a bottle) or a Mercurey from Raquillet (€46). Set menu €19 (lunch), menu €38. // G.D.