An old stationmaster’s house with vanilla-lemon décor, cathedral-like ceilings and wooden beams, light fixtures made from copper pipes… The colorful spot from chef Paul Dubertrand (ex-Zoko Moko in Saint-Jean-de-Luz) charges full steam ahead with an electric menu that stays up to date and on the right track. Tested and approved the day we went for lunch, while seated on the terrace with ocean views: gourmet oxtail ravioli floating around in a smoking hot dashi broth; spicy prawn and cod moqueca moistened by a fiery coconut curry bisque, with sweet potato, cilantro and bok choy for backup; and a divine coffee pudding served with vanilla whipped cream for dessert. At apéro hour, there are post-beach tapas: sardines in oil, pimientos de padrón, fresh baby squid, fries in paper cones… // D.N.
FEELING THIRSTY? A Nîmes rosé from the Château de Valcombe (€4.50 a glass), Le Bordeaux du Paysan, a red from Nicolas Roux (€32 a bottle) and cocktails at night (€8-14).
PRICE: À la carte €32-52, tapas €5-23, kids’ menu €12, brunch €20 (Sunday).