Le Siffleur de ballons
This is a bistro that really puts the pedal to the metal! The space? Lots of blonde wood (high barstools around the bar), with tables for groups in the basement, and shelves bearing some 400 natural wines – Delecheneau, Bobinet, Fleith… And what about the grub? There’s an eclectic menu, with well-sourced platters (Bellota chorizo, Prince de Paris ham, etc.) and a few gems of bistro cooking: pan-fried organic asparagus from Anjou, topped with a mouthwatering lemon mayo (€8); incredible raw milk buffalo mozzarella made by their neighbor Nanina and served with Leccino olives (€12); a lovely salad of broad beans, fresh mint, ricotta and a bell pepper brunoise (€9); good beef cheeks in an herb broth, with carrots drizzled in sesame oil (€9); before a nice slice of 70% Weiss chocolate cake and a scoop of light whipped cream (€6). To drink, there’s natural wine of course! A nice Blet Tendre from Les Terres Blanches (€8 a glass), an opulent Matines from the Château Campagne Bacchus (€7.50) or a deep Vie du Clos Massotte (€6.50). Plates €5-14. // G.LeP.