Les Enfants Rouges
Tucked away in a side alley off the Marché des Enfants-Rouges, there’s a bistro-bar whose kooky decor (driftwood, exposed stone walls, brown tiling) goes nicely with the carefully prepared dishes from Daï Shinozuka. Trained under the master of pork, Yves Camdeborde, the Japanese chef carved out an exciting menu for €38 the day we went: salmon gravlax over a bed of bulgur and fennel in a mustard sauce; a beautiful flank steak seared on the plancha, dressed in camo (cauliflower + raw piquillo peppers + roasted guindillas) with some barely opened clams – or, for an extra €12, five-star veal sweetbreads sautéed until golden in maître d’hôtel butter; before the well-balanced dessert, a refreshing combo of stacked grapefruit and litchi slices with mousse, jelly and granita made from the same fruits. As for the wines, it’s all natural: Saumur-Champigny from Les Chancelle (€9 a glass), a red Côtes-du-Rhône from Klein (€45 a bottle), a white Cheverny from Villemade (€52). Menus €38 (weekday lunch) and €48 (dinner). // A.A.