There’s no storefront, but after heading up to the first floor of this historic canal building, you’ll find a sort of two-bedroom apartment-style space (white walls, school chairs, views of the riverboats) made even larger by a guinguette-style covered terrace. Occupied by two Japanese roommates, chef Katsunori Nakanishi (ex-Cette in Paris) and sommelier Toshiyuki Kondo (ex-Pente Douce) craft high-flying, customized rides for their guests. The other night on the €38 menu: subtle foie gras that was soberly poached and served with plums in a clear chicken broth with bitter absinth leaf notes, and slightly charred pencil leeks; beautiful roasted halibut and meagre steaks buried under a pile of vegetables (zucchini, cauliflower, haricots verts, celery, beetroot and potatoes); and to avoid more banality, a delicious “chocolate cake” that was incredibly creamy paired with a few figs roasted in mulled wine and caramelized walnuts hiding under a shortbread lid. // A.S.

FEELING THIRSTY? The menu features a few pretty names: a Collioure white from Parcé (€7 a glass), a Muscadet from Landron (€30 a bottle), a Faugères red from Barral (€46), a Côtes-du-Jura red from Ganevat (€68)…

PRICE: Menus €19-33 (lunch) and €38-50 (dinner); menus from €33 to €50 upon reservation.