Right near the Bourse du Travail, in space that feels like a modern atelier (an open kitchen, school chairs, clean walls), Xavier Radojewski (ex-Senderens) lights up our taste buds as soon as we sit down with a sauce ravigote to kick things off (egg, tarragon, parsley, mustard, shallots), which you’ll likely gobble up like a child. The day we went for lunch, the €22 set menu followed suit: recreational wild garlic hummus with shredded duck – or dashing white asparagus, scarmoza, pork crumble and an elderflower vinaigrette; generous veal rump with a bed of turnips and yellow beets, all tied together by a jus de canard – or a trout fillet cooked in olive oil (as a substitute for mackerel), served with potatoes, seaweed and rhubarb; before some brave Cléry strawberries with a long peppercorn ice cream and a goat cheese mousse over a rosemary shortbread. At night, the tapas are all knockouts: duck thigh with yácon and chicory; black pollack fillet with cauliflower, taramasalata, spinach and pickles, etc. To drink, there’s a selection of beautiful bottles: Les Potiers, a Saint-Péray from Yves Cuilleron (€7.20 a glass), Le Temps des Cerises, a Santenay red from Antoine Olivier (€29 a bottle). Set menus €17-22 (lunch), plates €8-12 (dinner). // N.K.