A waiting room for passengers with a ticket to Clamato, or the final destination for seasoned apéro aficionados, Bertrand Grébaut and Théophile Pourriat’s tiny wine shop & bar combines well-sourced tapas with wines that are about as natural as they come. The other night, lined up on the eucalyptus green bar, around which people were chatting in a whole flurry of languages, there were a few beautiful cuts of the local terroir: marvelous Galician beef ham and Kintoa pork aged for 23 months; fresh goat cheese with a curry-infused olive oil for a hint of the Orient; or even some outstanding zucchini served with sheep’s milk faisselle cheese with tangy fermented lemon. // N.K.
FEELING THIRSTY? Everything you could ever want or need: a Saumur white from Sébastien Bobinet (€6.50 a glass), a Chilean Pinot noir from Dominique Derain (€7), Pied de Nez, an Alsatian white from Catherine Riss (€25 a bottle), La Pépée, an Arbois red from the Domaine des Bottes Rouges (€30), Skin Contact, a Savagnin Bourgignon from Frédéric Cossard (€45), Coteau de la Mort, a Mondeuse from Antoine Petitprez (€75)….
PRICE: Plates €4-14.
