Sources

With some help from their techie friend David Millier, chefs Ingrid Deffein (ex-Lulu Rouget) and Guillaume Decombat (ex-Semilla in Paris) scrubbed up this old crêperie all by themselves, giving it a striking new look: stripped-back walls, a light wood bar, copper tones, fresh flowers… Known now as Sources, the three amigos keep themselves busy in the kitchen: vegetables from Annie Bertin, seaweed and wild herbs from Les Jardins de la Mer in Le Croisic, fish from Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie, heritage meat breeds from the Boucherie Les Bottes, cheese from Les Carmélites, coffee from Un Grain Une Feuille in Carquefou… The day we went for lunch, these all resulted in: stunningly tender haddock “cooked” in salt and sugar, under a milk-cream espuma infused with the fish skin and sliced radishes; pollack with new turnips, orache, kombu and almonds; and a gariguette strawberry and condensed milk mousse to finish. // D.C.

FEELING THIRSTY? Fier Seigneur, a Muscadet from Vincent Caillé (€6 a glass), Pot d’Vache, an Anjou red from the Domaine des Terres Blanches (€6), Excelsior, a Muscadet 2014 from the Domaine Luneau-Papin (€55 a bottle) or even Le Rêveur, an Anjou red from Le Fief Noir (€40).

PRICE: Menus €19-23 (lunch except Saturday) and €64 (food and wine pairings +€14 and €20), à la carte €41-59 (dinner).