Make some noise for Vacarme! This charming bistro from Damien Crémois (ex-Hollybelly 5 in Paris) and Charles Boutin (a formed HR man) is giving the Bouffay neighborhood a brutal wakeup call thanks to the dishes sent out by chef Sarah Mainguy, who also used to work at Hollybelly. The last time we went, seated on a plywood bench with views of a painting by Mika, we devoured the striking lunch menu: an impeccable watercress soup with walnut oil and green shiso – for a Japanese touch; opulent roasted pork belly moistened by an anchovy cream, well-braised endives and a charred onion purée; before a perfect chocolate tart. At night, tapas take over the menu: flame-charred scallops with a spicy beef jus; lumpfish roe with fennel and salsa verde; little tunny with raw cream and sorrel… // G.LeP.

FEELING THIRSTY? Natural wines: a Grolleau from Jennifer Bariou and Thibaut Bodet in Tours (€4 a glass), a Lot red from Fabien Jouves (€23 a bottle), or a macerated Alsatian white from Mathieu Deiss (€41), not to mention the Loire wines – Breton, Pithon-Paillé, Clos du Tue-Bœuf…

PRICE: Set menus €17-21 (lunch), tapas €4-12 (dinner).