Three weeks after opening his new cave à manger in Lyon, Mathieu Rostaing-Tayard began welcoming customers into his meticulously designed restaurant Sillon, painted Marjorelle blue and decorated with blonde wood furniture and globe light fixtures. Watch out, you’re about to enter an haute cuisine zone! One that is carefully sourced, since the fish comes from the Saint-Jean-de-Luz markets and the vegetables from Les Jardins du Refuge in Anglet and the Ferme Landaldea in Ustaritz. For us, the night we went: jubilatory smoked anchovies from Getaria, placed atop buckwheat bread rubbed with lemon leaf and spread with a preserved lemon paste; divine line-caught hake cooked on a Japanese barbecue, served with kombucha paste, celeriac (roasted and shaved raw) with a watercress / almond milk / juniper jus; before the fatal finale, apricot served roasted and puréed, with a stone fruit pit granita, sage sorbet and a Grand Roux corn cookie. // Gérard Roubeix

FEELING THIRSTY? You’ll only find clean options to sip on: a Spanish sparkling wine called Urkizahar (€6 a glass), a Loire white from Zoé and Thierry Puzelat (€38 a bottle), an Irouléguy red from the Domaine Arretxea (€59), a cider from Bordatto (€15 for 750 ml)…

PRICE: À la carte €32 -48, carte blanche menu €60 (7 courses).