Chéri Bibi

Just a stone’s throw from the beach, Chéri Bibi, a solid-gold bistro that was once cared for by Fanny and François Lemarié, is now run by Augustine You (with the wines) and Adrien Witte (in the kitchen). After working for Amass in Copenhagen, the duo has given this den a new look: fifties tiling, vintage furniture, old-fashioned mirrors… and a natural oak and blueish grey marble bar, behind which the Breton chef stews up carefully chosen organic ingredients from the Bay of Biscay. We indulged in all of the following the night we went: cheeky green asparagus tickled by a wild garlic oil and a briny vinaigrette, buried under seaweed (red, nori, sea lettuce) and pickled samphire, fennel fronds and mustard blossoms; a memorable pollack killed ikejime style and poached in olive oil, moistened by a pil-pil sauce and paired with roasted spring onion; before an incredible polenta financier paired with a keraji mandarin jam and a raw cream ice cream. You also won’t want to miss out on the small plates: fish charcuterie, anchovies and smoked lemon purée, deviled eggs with miso and bottarga… // Gérard Roubeix

FEELING THIRSTY? Striking natural wines: an Aude white from Yohann Moreno (€5 a glass) or a Roussillon from Tom Lubbe (€45 a bottle), a Loire red from Sébastien Bobinet (€24)… unless you’d rather opt for a bottle of cider from La Cidrerie du Vulcain (€33). You can also bring your own bottle for a €10 corkage fee.
PRICE: Small plates €4-8, dishes €12-25, desserts €8-9.