Sometimes making a racket can be a good thing… Especially at this luminous café with a Levant yellow façade that brings a little sunshine to a greying stretch of Avenue Jean-Jaurès. That’s where Gabrielle Beck, an interior designer turned chef, is proclaiming her love of well-made Lebanese treats. But you’ve been warned: at her restaurant, you won’t find the classic baba ganoush or tabbouleh year round, she only serves seasonal dishes! On this winter day, for example: a fat fatteh with plenty of chickpeas and pita chips; addictive halloumi croquettes illuminated by honey and za’atar; cheeky matni (beef meatballs wrapped up in a ravioli-like dough) served with creamy sumac yogurt; and osmalieh for dessert (angel hair with olive oil, fruit and cream). // Victoria Bout 

FEELING THIRSTY? Terroirs du Liban orange blossom water served in the white coffee in the winter or homemade lemonade in the summer (€4.50), or red wine from the Domaine des Tourelles imported straight from the Beqaa Valley (€6.50 a glass, €28 a bottle). 
PRICE: Combo menus €19-22 (weekday lunch), sandwiches €8.50 to €9.50 (to go only), mezze €6.50 to €9, mains €15-18, desserts €6.50 to €9.50.