Tonton ramen

Ever since Naritake Ramen — the temple to rich and creamy ramen — shut its doors, devoted fans can finally enjoy smoking hot noodle bowls once more! Makoto Saegusa has done it again, this time from the tiny kitchen of this dive with mezzanine seating, all done up in dark wood and marine blue benches, quietly concocting the return of his glorious tonkotsu broths, rich with pork fat… Seasoned with miso, shio (salt) and shoyu (soy sauce), they simmer for hours before the chef generously ladles them over thick men (alkaline wheat vermicelli noodles) made using a recipe adapted from Menkicchi. The other night, we indulged in a big bowl of shoyu soup, in which our noodles harmonized with three slices of perfectly braised chashu pork, menma (fermented bamboo shoots), a hearty sprinkling of negi (scallions) and, as an optional add-on, an ajitsuke tamago (ramen egg) for extra freshness. This tonton really knows how to elevate a bowl of noodles! // Scotty Lard

FEELING THIRSTY? : For a properly slurped up meal, quench your thirst with either a Kirin beer on tap (€4.50 for a half-pint) or a glass of homemade organic iced tea (€3.50).
PRICE: : Ramen €14-18, extra toppings €2 to €3.50.