Ryô

Not far from the Japan-obsessed Rue Sainte-Anne, there’s a gem of a restaurant hidden away, featuring pared-down decor: immaculate white tiling, light wooden panels, a big open countertop. There, stockbrokers and executives of all stripes come get their paws on meticulously made plates by Toyofumi Ôzuru (ex-Kinugawa), a chef with lightening-speed knife skills! The other day at lunch, we had all of the following: opulent salmon, tuna, amberjack and shrimp sushi; incredible caramelized miso eggplant eaten with a spoon; or devoured visually in our tablemate’s bowl, some beautiful cold soba noodles in green tea, paired with shrimp tempura… FYI: the classic sushi-sashimi lunch option is a great choice for anyone in a rush. // John Mason

FEELING THIRSTY? A lovely selection of sakes including a Junmai from Saga (€18 for 120 ml), chilled Kirin beer (€10.50 for 500 ml) or Calpis, a lactic acid drink (€7).
PRICE: Set menus €28-34 (weekday lunch), sushi €6 to €9.50, sashimi €20-29, à la carte €40-50.