Ramen’s the word! After three years of noodling his way from New York to Tokyo, George Black (Black Axe Mangal and Bright in London, Maison in Paris) has finally put down roots in a steel and concrete stronghold for a collaboration with no expiry date in sight with Solal Martin-Grondard, the owner of Les Œillets, who fell hard for the London chef’s cooking. Judging by the line of eager slurpers, he’s not the only one. These high-flying bowls are built around smoked eel dashi or a vegetarian broth enriched with white miso, mushrooms and coconut oil, plus thin, springy noodles and first-rate toppings – including a wow-worthy pork and shrimp wonton. Add authentic small plates, low-intervention wines and dessert with not a mochi in sight and you’ve got bowls that set a new benchmark for Parisian slurpers. · Bouyaya Kitori

Ate: Heart-stealing duck hearts grilled over binchotan coals with satsuma segments, castelfranco raddichio and sesame sauce; a hyper-bowl of shio ramen, yuzu, Duroc pork chāsu, wonton, nori sheets and a perfect ajitsuke tamago; followed by strawberry rice pudding with savagnin and tarragon oil.

Price: Small plates €10-14, ramen €18-21, dessert €8.