All roads lead (back) to Ghent! That’s the story of how Bram Vanaudenaerde, after traveling around Southeast Asia, finally settled down with his pots and pans in tow just a stone’s throw from Saint Bavo’s cathedral. In this restaurant that combines white marble with colorful cushions, the chef takes inspiration from all over, stitching together neo-fusion plates with worldly flavors. The other day at lunch, all of the following paraded out to our table, dressed as always with a fork, a knife and a pair of chopsticks: Iberian pan con tomate topped with ’nduja (spicy Calabrian sausage spread) and served with stracciatella; a platter featuring chicken satay skewers, herb-packed spring rolls and gyoza with ponzu sauce, for a harmonious Thai-Vietnamese-Japanese entente; Zeeland mussels bathing in a Thai tom khai kai coconut milk soup, as creamy as it was spicy… And for dessert? A sort of revisited affogato featuring black tahini ice cream, with a shot of espresso poured over it tableside. After that, a Chokotoff chocolate toffee candy and the bill, and we’re unquestionably back on Belgian territory. // Simo Né

FEELING THIRSTY? A mixologist, sommelier and barista all at once, Dorian Van Limbergen offers up classy cocktails (like the New York Sour, €15), a selection of wines (including The Butcher, an Austrian red from Weingut Schwarz, €9 a glass) or homemade hibiscus iced tea (€6).

PRICE: Hors-d’oeuvres €12-20 (at the bar), mains €22-42, desserts €11-15, set menus €49-72 (four to six courses).