Now here’s three butchers with serious bite! Already spotted behind the block at Viande Viande, Édouard Haguet, Adrien Quennepoix and Paul Di Giandomenico are wowing shoppers here with a barrage of charcuterie heavy-hitters (rillettes, calf’s head, pâté en croûte, baked ham, fennel sausage), alongside crafty cured meats from Thierry Pardon, and whole carcasses of beef from Domaine Coiffard or cattle breeder David Akpamagbo (aged on-site before being cut into T-bones, ribs, sirloins or ground beef). Add to that free-range pork from Béarn, lamb from Lozère and poultry from Challans. Phew! You can sink your teeth into all this from noon onwards at one of the stainless-steel tables or at the counter, where Paul and head butcher Enguerrand Rouiller (ex-David Toutain) cook up epic dishes: sausage and mash doused in a rich, meaty jus, or lamb two ways – seared ribs, paprika-spiced pulled saddle – served with glazed Brussels sprouts and turnips. To wash it down, a wine list ranging from a Loire by Olivier Humeau to a Burgundy form Athénaïs de Béru, plus a few other gems guaranteed to make you swoon. · Tami Taylor

THE HIDDEN GEM: The house blood sausage (€25 per kilo), also available in a galabar version with slow-cooked pig’s head, piment du Béarn and smoked paprika (€36).