Back in 2022, the legendary and mysterious chef Katsuaki Okiyama left a crowd of admirers with nowhere to go when he closed Abri, his tiny and immensely popular fine dining joint. He has since joined forces with Hugo Combe (Classique) to cook up this restaurant-mixologist bar combo with lofty ambitions! What should you expect? Stripped-bare walls, oak flooring, a bar filled with cocktail shakers, a kitchen that puts on a show… and on the plates, an acrobatic menu that tightropes between vibrant and dizzying dishes. Consider the following: two sublime bluefin tuna sashimi prepared with samurai-like precision, plated atop sweet onion cream, crushed Bronte pistachios, granny smith apples and pickled green grapes; langoustines dressed in a mijinko (potato and corn starch) breading over a creamy lentil emulsion, crisp lentils and a beetroot condiment; otherworldly cod orbited by a floral Noilly Prat cream and a broccoli condiment, all of which is hidden underneath a smoked kale leaf with land caviar (a Japanese legume); Robuchon-esque duck intensified by a full-bodied vanilla and bitter orange duck jus, paired with a spinach and blue cheese ravioli, plus carrots and turnips as both purée and sautéed veggies; before a dessert combining mango, pineapple and passion fruit coulis, siphoned yuzu, pomelo grapefruit pulp, hazelnuts and meadowsweet ice cream. // Philo Sale-Ami

FEELING THIRSTY? : Top-notch shaken drinks (including the Tsundoku combining Nikka Days whiskey, OFTD plantation rum, amontillado, buckwheat and kiwi lassi, €14), and clever wines (Badinerie, an Alsatian auxerrois from Kumpf & Meyer at €58 a bottle, or Biau, a Coteaux-du-Giennois red by Mathieu Coste at the same price).
PRICE: : Set menu €60 (up to €90 if you opt for the add-ons).