Faggio Pizzeria et Salumeria

On the even-numbered side of Rue de Rochechouart, Faggio provides a two-in-one experience, as its name implies: a pizzeria and a salumeria, to be enjoyed one after the other. Let’s talk about the salumeria first, where you can have aperitivo: plump green olives like little zeppelins, cheeky vitello tonnato (“even better than Simone Tondo’s version”), Galician beef ham, fatty cochon noir fennel salami, anchovies from Cantabria bobbing around in olive oil… Followed by a pizza at the pizzeria, cooked in a beech wood-fired oven (faggio is Italian for beech wood), with its lovely loft-like feel (rough brick walls, white tiling, French school chairs), where a dozen beautiful Neapolitan pies with blackened edges file out. Including a baroque “Comme à Marseille,” half of which is covered in anchovies, and half in Parmesan and garlicky olive oil (a tribute to the late Étienne Cassaro, a legend of Marseille pizza), or a reinvigorating “Campagnola” with fior di latte, smoked mozzarella and fresh fennel sausage – followed by an inevitable tiramisu. Our only complaint? Despite a connecting door between the two spaces, the pizzeria doesn’t serve all of the snacks available at the salumeria. // Jean Pascal

FEELING THIRSTY? A windowed wine cellar where you can explore some impressive natural gems: Nerd Duck, a Portuguese red from João Pato (€6 a glass), Entre deux Eaux, an Aveyron chenin from Nicolas Carmarans (€34 a bottle), a montepulciano from Abruzzo produced by Danilo Marucci (€33)…
PRICE: Pizzas €12-18, snacks €3.50 to €14.