Scarpetta

The dishwasher ought to be happy at Scarpetta, where the plates come back clean as a whistle! Fabien Lombardi’s Faggio empire (Faggio Pizzeria, Bambino) has streamlined its concept, replacing the salumeria with this trattoria that promotes the art of saucing up a plate, in a space with big wooden counters, carefully framed posters and dim lighting. In short, everything has changed, apart from the Italian spirit, which manifests itself here as masterfully cooked pasta made by chef Giovanni. Served the night we went on chic, immaculate white tablecloths, there was a holy trinity of tomatoes, stracciatella and nectarines, before that night’s bellezze: bucatini del diavolo glistening in an ’nduja tomato sauce that definitely had a touch of the devil to it, all (obviously) sprinkled with grated Parmesan, plus agnolotti topped with silky ricotta and covered in a stunning combo of anchovies, lemon, butter and sage – which we preferred over the casarecce alla puttanesca. What about the end of the meal? A properly chilled vanilla-apricot semifreddo wrapped everything up. // Roberto Arenales

FEELING THIRSTY? : The windowed wine cellar hasn’t changed a bit, and still shows off living wines for all price ranges: Ça Se Discute, a pineau d’Aunis by Laurent Saillard (€7 a glass), Memo, a skin-contact macabeu from Mataburro (€37 a bottle), Selves 2020, an Aveyron chenin produced by Nicolas Carmarans (€60)… or perhaps an Abruzzo trebbiano by Emidio Pepe, for €576.
PRICE: : À la carte €48-59.