In 2003, the former conventional wine agent Mikael Lemasle decided to “stop leading a double life” and embraced his passion for natural wines by opening this chaotic wine shop, just a stone’s throw from Bertrand Auboyneau’s restaurant. Though a few acrobatics are required to move through the space and get your hands on some sulfite-free marvels, like Les Lendemains qui Chantent, a 100% Grenache from Axel Prüfer in the Hérault department (€25 a bottle), Les Œillets, a Jacquère from Jean-Yves Péron (€27.50), a 2017 Charmay, a Jura blend from Alice Bouvot (€25.50), a Beaujo-Villages from Carine Joubert (€10)… And to sponge it all up, Picholine olives from Le Mas des Vautes or the very lovely canned seafood from La Compagnie Bretonne – sardines, albacore tuna, mackerel rillettes… // E.T. 

The bullet-proof bottle: A Touraine Sauvignon orange wine from François Blanchard (€26).