If you’ve set out to do your weekly shopping at the Saint-Bruno farmers’ market, you won’t want to miss this windowed facade, whose carefully arranged bottles catch the eye… Welcome to the wine shop of musician Renaud Brustlein, alias H-Burns, who put all his vinous inclinations into this wine shop & bar with a very boudoir-like feel: azulejo tile floors, cozy armchairs, marble-topped pedestal tables, floral banquettes, vintage pieces… and vinyls that are ready to be played, including the album by Neil Young that inspired the shop’s name. Ready for a drink? The owner reveals a natural partition that strikes zero false notes, with a selection of wines served by the glass that changes daily – focused on the Languedoc the day we went, with an Hérault white produced by Yannick Pelletier, and Anathème, a lively Gard red from Thierry Forestier (starting at €5 a glass). As for the bottles, there’s plenty to explore in exchange for a €10 corkage fee in addition to the bottle price: Un hiver sur la lune, a Marsanne-Jacquère combo from the Ardèche producer Étienne Seignovert (€24), Éléments, a Anjou Grolleau from Julien Noire (€17), a Mondeuse from the Domaine des 13 lunes located between the Isère and Savoie departments (€16.50)… There are beers too, including pilsner and lager from the Brasserie du Mont Salève in the Haute-Savoie. And joyful apéro bites to eat: pâté en croûte from the nearby Delas deli, focaccia from Agustomio, a big platter from charcuterie from Chartreuse and mountain cheeses… // Eric Taylor 

THE BULLET-PROOF BOTTLE: Sunset Park, a house skin-contact white made in collaboration with the Auvergne producers Patrick Bouju and Justine Loiseau (€23 to go), named after the latest album by H-Burns.