In the mid-2000s, Olivier Roblin dropped philosophy to become the manager of Les Caves du Panthéon, before buying it in 2009 and boosting its selection of natural and/or biodynamic wines. Like a modern-day Socrates, he discusses his various gems displayed on wooden shelves with anyone who wants to: both Les Grandes Vignes, a rosé from the Cave Coopérative d’Estézargues in the Gard (€7.80 a bottle), and a 2016 Jura Blanc de Blanc crémant from Jérôme Arnoux (€20), or even a 2017 Nuit-Saint-George Premier Cru from Le Clos de la Maréchale (€165)… Not to mention the Champagnes from Jacques Selosse or the beautiful Romanée-Conti wines, removed from their wooden boxes upon request. There are even rumors that bottles of Pierre Overnoy wine are lying around somewhere…  

The bullet-proof bottle: A 2009 Faugères red from Léon Barral (€38), brought to the shop from his hidden cellar in Tours.