Good music and good wine! That’s the motto of Clément and Paul Ruspil, Mathieu Chevrier, Jean-Louis Darmon and Adjan Chelil, a fine group of friends who discreetly opened this wine shop during France’s second lockdown. What should you expect? A central tiled bar, McIntosh speakers pumping out well-chosen vinyls (Floating Points, Pharoah Sanders, Erykah Badu…) and, lined up on two of the walls, 51 bottles of natural wine, no more, no less, each placed on its own pedestal. A lovely selection of wines from France and abroad, which are constantly changing. During our last trip there, we grabbed all of the following: Auvergne wines from Patrick Bouju, including a red Sein pour Sein (€27); New Peech, a rare Ardèche red blend from Anders Frederik Steen (€17); La Bufarella, a Catalan Malvoisie from Toni Carbó (€29); or even Theodora, an Austrian white from Gut Oggau (€33). Plenty to get excited about! // D.S.

The bullet-proof bottle: Cuvée Blanc Matasse, a Roussillon wine from the Domaine Matassa (€41).