“How’s the chenin drinking?” That’s a question you can ask again on Île Saint-Louis (first names and tu all round) now that Camilia Cherf has taken the keys to the legendary L’Étiquette. Cut to young Le Figuier, equal parts good-time wine shop and snacking counter. Already supplying Paris’s little natural-wine world through her agency Effervescence, this discerning drinker...