Alberte Restaurant (Ghent)

© Alberte

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On this section of sidewalk in a rather gloomy residential neighborhood, located near the R40 highway, nothing really whets the appetite… until you reach the electric blue facade belonging to Alberte, the cushy wine-filled hideout from Phil Dewulf (ex-Volta, De Vitrine) and Inge De Moor (ex-Veranda). What’s it like inside? Mallard green walls, exposed bricks and not one, but two bars showing off a collection of unfussy hors-d’oeuvres stewed up by Quinten Calliauw (ex-D’Oude Pastorie). Savored the night we went: a mouthwatering buckwheat cracker with smoked yogurt and vadouvan spice mix served in an enveloping onion bouillon with miso mousse; bittersweet flatbread topped with lemon cream, smoked beef tongue, steamed leeks and spinach; tantalizing cuttlefish tagliatelle with a fermented pepper jus and bok choy seasoned with homemade harissa; and a white chocolate, buckwheat and lemon caramel ice cream sandwich. In short, a spot that’s well worth the detour. // Sam Oups

FEELING THIRSTY? Big time natural wines! Bois Sans Soif, a Loire white in homage to Olivier Lemasson (€48 a bottle), Olla Rouge, a Roussillon red from the Domaine Matassa (€75), and wines served by the glass for €7-11.

PRICE: Set menus €36 (lunch) and €64 (dinner).

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