After teasing the Montmartre neighborhood with his beloved restaurant Polissons, Romain Lamon has rushed back down the hill to sculpt his new spot Argile on Rue de Milan, in a very brutalist black and white space, where the open kitchen puts on a show for customers. Think of it as a big rectangular stage of sorts where you can watch a parade of cheeky plates dance their way to your table: purple-hued duck tataki with salt-crusted beets and a rice vinegar condiment, plus radicchio salad and pickled Muscat grapes; whole octopus confit with garlic, lemon and olive oil, lounging on a fluffy cloud of creamy Parmesan sauce, plus crispy fried guanciale; and a delightful vegetarian pithivier pie made with celery root and mushrooms, served atop a full-bodied celery jus – which you can sauce up with the homemade sourdough and decadent whipped lemon butter. What about dessert? A millefeuille that defies convention, combining honey ice cream with an olive oil condiment. · Roberto Arenales

FEELING THIRSTY? A selection of primarily French natural wines, chosen by Emma Aurelio (ex-Liquiderie and 228 Litres): Traboules, a gamay from Guillaume Clusel (€10 a glass), an Alsatian skin-contact white produced by Binner (€35 a bottle), Pouquoi Faire Sans Blanc, a Roanne chenin from the Domaine Sérol (€38), or a marsannay red by Sylvain Pataille (€91).
PRICE: Prix-fixe and set menus €22-26 (lunch), à la carte €46-55 (dinner).