Already spotted at a few very cool places (such as À Moro, nearby), natural-wine ace Guillaume Maugain is now bringing understated bistro vibes to the nightlife-heavy Plaine district with this instant hot spot, easily recognizable by its string lights out front. From the banquette seating facing the open kitchen (helmed by British chef Robert Shipley, who did stints at Yard in Paris, Lighthaus in London and Nathan Outlaw in Cornwall) to the terrace outside, the boss and his seasoned squad makes sure good food and good wine go hand in hand. The night we went, panicking at the thought of missing out, we went all in on the chalkboard menu presented by Sarah Lhardit: a chic plate of chanterelles on toast simply crowned with a glossy egg yolk; cheeky beef heart skewers; a swoon-worthy braised beef cheek stew with melt-in-the-mouth gratin dauphinois; hearty sausage and mash doused in a rich meaty jus; and golden fried sardines – so good we were already planning to come back the next day to try out the lunch menu. Oh, and that dessert: chocolate hazelnut mousse with olive oil and fleur de sel, classic, yes, but executed to absolute perfection. // Folayemi Abimbola

FEELING THIRSTY? Without a doubt, the finest wine cellar on Boulevard Chave, with no fewer than 6,000 bottles of natural wine! Take your pick: Quand Fond La Neige, Où Va Le Blanc, an Angevin chenin from Les Errances (€6 a glass), a Burgundy pinot noir from Domaine de la Côtelette (€52 a bottle), or a skin-contact vermentino from Terres d’Esclans in the Var (€36), along with many other labels from the likes of Julie Balagny, Maison Valette, Valentin Morel and Frédéric Gounan.

PRICE: Set menu €24-28 (lunch), à la carte €33-46 (dinner).