Ciao L’Enchotte, this place now goes by the name of Chez Marius! Yannick Aubrée, the owner of Casimir, took over this old wine bar on Rue de Chabrol and turned it into a bistro for groups of friends. We come here less for the carnivorous decor (a stuffed fox, hare and wild boar trophies, an “Eat organic, eat the vegetarians” poster) than for the gingham tablecloths, ornate wood bar and cheeky cuisine prepared by Dimitri Gris (ex-Louve), which is pretty seafood heavy. Let’s get down to brass tacks: oyster ceviche, sautéed mussels with turmeric and cilantro, steak tartare, bone marrow, dab-sole & chips…. And for us, some incredible casserons (baby cuttlefish) to start, which were juicy and briny, paired with snow peas and an artichoke cream; followed by half of a veal brain with a lovely ponzu sauce, minced herbs and lemon zest; and masquerading as dessert, a strange cherry cake – the official pastry chef being absent that particular day. // Adrien Nouviaire

FEELING THIRSTY? A rather colossal chalkboard wine menu, which features an Aude white from Benjamin Taillandier (€6 a glass), a Burgundy Melon white from La Soeur Cadette (€31 a bottle), a Morgon from Antoine Sunier (€44) and a Chinon Cabernet franc from the Domaine de l’R (€37).
PRICE: Plates €12-23.