The talented trio of Victor Cohen, Arthur Cohen and Olivier Leone (Onii-San, Ojii) have kept next to nothing of La Cloche des Halles, the legendary corner bistro that used to feed the belly of Paris. So it’s adieu forever to the dust of yesteryear, and bonjour to thoughtful, artistic decor by Hypnos and Rodaa Studio – dark wooden walls, a marbled countertop, stiff white tablecloths…. However, chefs Thomas Coupeau (We are Ona, ex-Carbón and Café Singuliers) and Orfeo Ranieri (ex-Noma) still call upon the soul of this former old-fashioned brasserie with their mouthwatering dishes: aristocratic tender leeks in a bundle under a flavor-packed vinaigrette, seasoned with hazelnuts and bright green leek oil; perfectly cooked deboned chicken that was golden and crispy, lounging as if on a summer yacht, glazed in a tarragon reduction and served with a Caesar-esque salad… Before returning to the present via a very modern dessert of chocolate and olive oil mousse, dotted with capers. // Renaud Fuego
FEELING THIRSTY? : A drink list that name drops Mathieu Zouhairi (The Social Food) and his cocktail creations, like this saffron-infused G&T prepared with pomegranate purée and orange blossom water (€17). You can expect the same high standards from the wine cellar: No Wine’s Land, a Rhone white produced by Matthieu Barret (€13 a glass), a Morgon from Jean Foillard (€10), an Irancy from La Fontaine Goby (€72 a bottle)…
PRICE: : À la carte €66-120.
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