Chef overboard! After seven years under the wing of Sang Hoon Degeimbre (at L’Air du Temps and Vertige), Kevin Perlot has finally taken the plunge with his own restaurant, docked inside a listed former fishmongers where a glorious maritime fresco and original woodwork now meet a gleamingly new zinc counter. From his galley, the young chef reels in pristine Normandy fish (chartered via La Coquille qui Claque) and vegetables from Le Monde des Mille Couleurs for a five-course menu balancing sea spray and garden greens: amberjack prepared using the ikejime method, lightly cured and served raw with lettuce coulis, fried capers and a sprinkling of fresh herbs; scallop coral chawanmushi (Japanese savory flan) with an intense carrot jus, bay-infused carrots, extra scallops and a delicate scallop beard jus on the side; spring turnips with miso, rhubarb and turnip tops marinated in anchovy oil; beautifully cured monkfish with crisp green asparagus, lentils and a slightly shy horseradish pil-pil sauce; before a bittersweet hop ice cream with zingy cider jelly and caramelized puffed barley. To finish: a financier masquerading as a madeleine, plus a mini chocolate-buckwheat tart. · Carole Scarole

Feeling thirsty? The ever-friendly Philippe Lamourette pours with a generous hand: Indépendance, a grenache from Nicolas Renaud (€49 a bottle), Les Châtaigniers, a Loire white from Hervé Villemade (€47) and Perle, a Jura crémant from Domaine Courbet (€56). Alternatives include a delicate locally brewed tea by SKBI (€6 a glass).

Price: Lunch menus €49-€65-€80 (3-4-5 courses), dinner €80 (5 courses).