When your CV reads like a who’s who of Michelin-starred restaurants (La Table d’Olivier Nasti, Le Chalet de la Forêt, Bistro Racine), opening your own place is only a matter of time. Pierre Guérin has uncorked Flacon, where a counter overlooks the open kitchen beneath soft, atmospheric lighting and cork-clad walls. That evening: generous amberjack ceviche with cucumber, pea and chili sauce; Belgian chicken sourced from neighboring butcher Boucherie Léon, with crispy skin, vadouvan-spiced carrots, a rich chicken jus, carrot purée and tender Noirmoutier potatoes, finished with a charred lemon and anchovy condiment that adds a welcome bitter edge; followed by freshly churned vanilla ice cream with a bubbly 64% Costa Rican chocolate foam and cacao nibs. We’ll drink to that! · Carole Scarole

Feeling thirsty? Flacon takes its wines seriously: a riesling from Domaine Albert Mann (€10 a glass), a Burgundy white from Fanny Sabre (€70 a bottle) and a bouzeron from Chapuis & Chapuis (€45). Sober curious? Try the Madame Yang mocktail with raspberry, lychee and pink peppercorn (€6).

Price: Set menus €26-€28-€35, cheese €8 (lunch); tasting menus €67-€87, cheese €15 (dinner).