Welcome to the lair of globetrotting sommelier Jonathan Fillion (ex-Gordon Ramsay in London and Hôtel du Palais in Biarritz)! This self-styled gabatxos (Basque slang for “foreigner”, sometimes “yokel”, usually meaning the French) has breathed new life into a bona fide village épicerie-cum-wine-and-cheese shop, right in the heart of town. The day we dropped in, we zeroed in on the Boka Gasna, a kind of golden, crispy-edged, melted sandwich built with sourdough from the neighboring Susperregui bakery, shallots and a trio of grated cheeses (Ardi-Gasna from the Pyrenees, Abondance from Savoie and English Montgomery cheddar). Next on our hit list? Roasted leeks with ajo blanco and garlic bread; cochonito tonnato with anchovy mayo and fried capers… Or better yet, go all in with generous plates of charcuterie (Bellota ham, Ibaiama pork saucisson by Louis Ospital) and cheeses, like Pont-l’Évêque Fleuron from Le Plessis or Pouligny-Saint-Pierre from Fromagerie Jacquin. · Loulou Pic

FEELING THIRSTY? Nearly 300 bottles to take away or pop on-site (for a €10 corkage fee): Bas De Chapelot, a chablis from Eleni and Édouard Vocoret (€9 a glass), Matubu, a Languedoc red from Jeff Coutelou (€18 a bottle) or Sempre Azezzu from Giacometti in Corsica (€29).

PRICE: Plates €8-16.