Yet another lover of fines food has fallen victim to the game! After working in the car rental business, Saint-Jean-de-Luz native Guillaume Clément returned home and took over the old O’Pintxos restaurant. The result? No more tapas! Now it’s all about the precious dishes cooked up by Melissa and her team! Savor them in bursts at either the urban-looking bar or in the contemporary dining room (waxed concrete, wicker suspension lamps). For us, the night we went: stewed conchiglioni stuffed with pork loin in piperade; creamy Banka trout rillettes and crisp asparagus ribbons; breaded bonito crudo with a creamy wasabi mayo; remarkable flank steak with broad beans, peas and homemade chips; before a (not so runny) chocolate lava cake topped with caramel whipped cream. // N.K.

FEELING THIRSTY? A partisan selection that’s additive-free: rueda Menade (€3.50 a glass), a Roussillon white from Jean-Philippe Padié (€49 a bottle), a Morgon from Jean Foillard (€36) or a costlier Crozes-Hermitage from the Domaine Combier (€70).

PRICE: Set menu €15-18 (lunch), à la carte €29-42.