Café Belardi

In a neighborhood where bistros abound, this cheerful Saint-Jean-de-Luz spot stands out from the crowd – thanks, in part, to the billiard table taking center stage in the middle of the dining room. Seventies light fixtures, an original zinc-topped bar, brown tile floors and cookbooks make up the rest of the decor, in a space run by a winning duo: oenophile Quentin Pierre-Antoine, who used to work at the Toulouse wine shop Poison, and chef Agathe Baulu, who has done stints under Guérard, Bras and at Providence. The latter cooks up a stellar lunch menu for twenty bucks: delicious peeled heirloom tomatoes marinated in olive oil and served with crushed tomatoes and onions, alongside an arugula, celery and caper salad; flavor-packed, herby, line-caught meagre meatballs buddying up with octopus and potatoes in a memorable tuna broth – all of which was topped with mild Indian chili and piment d’Espelette; and for a subtly sweet dessert, plum tart with Bourbon vanilla crème anglaise. At night, expect options like Palestinian omelet, albacore tuna belly and floating island to share (or devour solo, depending on how hungry you are!), all served à la carte, in addition to well-chosen wines. // Loulou Pic

FEELING THIRSTY? : A low-intervention selection of nectars: Save The Servant, a Hérault skin-contact wine produced by Mylène Bru (€6 a glass), Chut!, a Gers sauvignon rose from Dominique Andiran (€36 a bottle), or Cajolle, a Jurançon noir from Parlange & Illouz (€31). Otherwise, opt for a Santa Clara lager made by Basqueland (€4 on tap) or a Perpignan-made Pectine hard apple cider from La Maison Otium (€26 a bottle).
PRICE: : Set menu €20 (lunch), dishes à la carte €8-25 (dinner), kids’ menu €12.