For those who think that Saint-Jean-de-Luz already has a full house of restaurants (Café Belardi, Petit Grill Basque, Pluviôse, etc.), here comes its (secret) trump card: Fargeot, a tiny little spot sheltered from the roar of the waves, with a no-nonsense attitude, a crushed-raspberry facade, a wooden bar and squishy, narrow banquette seating. After a summer residency in Urrugne, Elsa Marie (ex-La Vierge in Paris and Providence in Guéthary) and her alter ego Julian May (who also worked at La Vierge and Le Saint Eutrope) have taken over the reins of the kitchen: a plate of melt-in-the-mouth cecina ignited with some explosive organic guindillas; socca loaded with smoked eggplant and a flurry of fresh mint and cilantro straight from their garden; marvelous little cappelletti stuffed with ricotta, tomato and chili; chicken glistening in its cooking juices, jazzed up with Landes corn and some girolles mushrooms and green beans on the side; before clinging on to summer just a little bit longer with a plum and nectarine galette. · Rose Clince

FEELING THIRSTY? Raise a glass with some clean wines: Y A Plus Qu’à, a riesling from Kumpf & Meyer (€7.50 a glass), Sustrai Berry, a Basque tempranillo from Bodegas Aristu (€26 a bottle) or Zohra, an Auvergne gamay from Francine and François Dhumes (€43). Otherwise, opt for a locally made lager from the Etxeko Bob’s Beers craft brewery (€3.50 for a half pint) or Oma Frida alcohol-free sparkling wine (€5 for 200 ml).

PRICE: Appetizers €7-15, mains €18-24, desserts €7-8.