With the Alessi Brothers at full blast, Seabird blows a joyful, wine-soaked breeze through Biarritz, drawing in hungry locals – sandy feet and all – who squeeze in around the corner bar, just steps from the Grande Plage. At the helm are career changers Christine Foote (formerly in events) and Romain Delorme (ex-engineer), always ready with spot-on picks from their tightly curated lineup of over a hundred natural wines (Mosse, Tricot, Bobinet, Les Terres Promises, Bonnet Coton…). Pair a bottle with artfully turned-out small plates, or go straight for the homemade chips piled high with crème fraîche and fish roe. Proof that good things come in small pours! · Saga West

Ordered: Antigonisme, a Greek white from Ktima Ligas and Zulu Wine (€35 a bottle on site, including a €10 corkage fee), paired with breuil cheese and preserved lemon ravioli in bisque (€18).