From the fertile ground left behind by Anthony Orjollet’s former restaurant L’Epoq – before he decamped to the countryside to start a farm – another standout plant-based restaurant has taken root: Dialogues, cultivated by Adrien Zedda, Thomas Bouanich and Margaux Boisson (all alumni of Culina Hortus in Lyon). On the Basque Coast, their vibrant, veg-forward cooking, lightly kissed by the local sea spray, unfolds between a cave à manger and chef Adrien’s table, framed by with slick interiors (a marble-topped counter, Brotherwood furniture, a dreamy fresco by Materia & Ziat). After kicking off with a frenzy of amuse-bouches, lunch played out as follows: leek hearts whipped into submission with a leek-green mayo and bergamot-infused buttermilk; carrots in multiple guises – glazed, mousseline, reduction and jus – lifted by marigold oil pesto and seaweed caviar; followed by a delicately layered celery and mushroom dish topped with a parmesan crust, plus lovage coulis, Chartreuse and a deep, bourguignon-style jus. For the thrilling dessert, Margaux stole the show with an apple masterclass: dehydrated, rehydrated then transformed into a warm compote crowning walnut cake soaked in verjus and vin jaune syrup, concealed beneath vanilla mousse and paired with vin jaune ice cream and a crisp hazelnut tuile. · Augustin Marie

FEELING THIRSTY? Nearly a thousand prized bottles sourced by Thomas, including: Orthogneiss, a muscadet from Domaine de l’Écu (€10 a glass), a white blend from the Clos Maïa in the Causse du Larzac (€54 a bottle), Laïs, a Roussillon red by Olivier Pithon (€49) or splurge on Les Cistes, a Languedoc red by Marlène Soria (€220).

PRICE: Vegetarian lunch menu €44 or seafood-based menu €55 (7 courses), dinner €75 or €87 (11 courses).