Craving a blast of sea spray without leaving the market hall? Drop anchor at Biarritz’s indoor market, where the Laminak fishmongers have carved out a slick little corner (or rather, Korner), where self-taught chef Élodie Barron transforms the day’s catch into exciting, sea-faring dishes. When we swung by, the menu was riding high tide: Cantabrian anchovies, smoked swordfish, sea bream ceviche dazzling with yuzu kosho, scallop crudo with shiso and homemade ponzu, whole fish chosen straight from the counter… As well as show-stoppers like flash-seared tiger prawn deglazed with punchy plantxa sauce (sunflower oil, vinegar, lemon, garlic, parsley, piment d’Espelette); or meltingly tender Galician octopus served with spoonable Arto Gorria corn polenta zhuzhed with piment d’Espelette, sobrasada, mustard leaves and pickled mustard seeds. Still circling the menu? You’ll need a return trip for the Mediterranean bluefin tuna killed using the ikejime method and served as tartare, the fried baby squid or the monkfish skewer slicked with satay sauce. · Loulou Pic

FEELING THIRSTY? A short, sharp edit of natural wines, curated by local wine shop Retour Verre le Futur: Le P’tit Vaillant, a Loire Valley white (€6.50 a bottle), Xut, an irouléguy from Domaine Etxondoa (€35 a bottle) and Les Monges, a Provençal rosé from Domaine de la Mongestine (€23). Or go rogue with Landberry lager (€5.50 for 440 ml), Datxa kombucha (€4.50 for 300 mll) or Euskola cola (€3.50 for 330 ml).

PRICE: Plates €8-30.