It’s beautiful, it’s delicious, it’s bursting with heart! Nestled inside a striking 1960s concrete building overlooking the Saint-Nazaire basin, Gamin turns brutalism into balm. Think big picture windows flooding the room with light, sculptural furniture, plush cushions everywhere, polished concrete floors and a ceiling festooned with dangling wheat stalks. At its soul are Bastien and Charlotte Guillochon (ex-L’Arpège and Blue Hill at Stone Barns in New York), who are building this place as a family affair, and you can taste the devotion in every forkful. That Monday lunch? A small, edible miracle: tomato salad tangled with Breton gwell cheese and apricots; or cool cucumbers pred with outrageously good tarama and fried eggplant; then came a riot of crunchy green beans and potatoes tossed with mortadella and hemp seeds, siding up to pork belly from Bois Suzin farm – complete with house-made strawberry ketchup for shameless dunking. Meat-free options included zucchini grown by Magali Josso, stuffed with fennel, onion, tomato, Thai basil and parsley, lounging in a cucumber-lettuce sauce, with “bauzarella” (mozzarella crafted in La Baule at Près-Vert farm) drizzled in charred cucumber peel oil; or BBQ-kissed baby gem lettuce with monkfish belly caught by the local Maya small boat. For the sweet finale, peach Melba perfumed with verbena and hemp seed, or apricot frangipane tart served with sunflower ice cream. Sunshine on every plate! · Megan Linar

FEELING THIRSTY? A sleek, sharp wine list with plenty of carefully chosen gems: Rouge Pétard, an aramon from François Ducrot (€6.50 a glass), Ekko, a Loire muscadet from Ab Initio (€23 a bottle) and Faustine, an old-vine red from Domaine Comte Abbatucci (€35). And for a show-stopping finale, armagnacs from the Rozès family – notably Le Carré des Fantômes made from six near-extinct grape varieties (€12 a glass).

PRICE: Set menus €26-31 (lunch) and €30-55 (dinner), cheese supplement €8, breakfast €5-8.