After having made a splash in Tel Aviv (at Alena’s kitchen) and Paris (Tekés), Israeli-Marseille chef Cécile Lévy is now taking the plunge with La Baignoire, going it alone for the very first time. Located down a quiet street near the Grands Boulevards, the restaurant mixes old school references (white tablecloths, silverware, antique porcelain) with natural touches (lime wash, raw timber, fresh flowers). That evening, the menu scribbled out in a diary-style notebook, depicted Mediterranean, Asian and French influences: green beans and skordalia (a thick garlic confit dip with almonds, bread crumbs and cider vinegar), with mint, shallots and kishk – a dried sheep’s milk yogurt; charred braised leeks, a masterpiece coated with white miso, honey, yuzu butter, lime, raw cream, sage and verbena crumble; superb rib-eye steak served with three sauces (Korean curry, creamed corn and red wine), to mop up with the delirious homemade challah; bold monkfish with a raw center, blessed with a pineapple tomato sauce, wasabi-infused butter and toasted sesame oil; and finish with a nice lemon meringue pie. A bigger splash! // Éric Taylor

FEELING THIRSTY? During our last visit, the wine cellar was still undergoing the final touches, mixing French bottles (a Camargue white from Domaine Scamandre at €39 a bottle, Caillez Lemaire champagne at €78) with the odd Hungarian, Lebanese and Israeli appearance, like the lovely Carignan Proletar from Abaya in Galilee (€81).

PRICE: Set menus €27-31 (lunch), à la carte €43-69 (dinner).