La Belle Équipe Is back – and burning bright once more under Nightshop duo Jens Crabbe (also behind Mok) and Jocasta Allwood, who’ve revived the name of the pizzeria that once occupied the space, before its brief stint as Aster. At the gleaming new stoves, Théo Léonard (who cut his teeth at Nightshop) deploys an arsenal of pampered produce, precision cooking and sauces with plenty under the hood. Forget done-to-death converted-garage look: this is an intimate spot with a fiery kind of cool vibe (candles galore, a Bieke Buckinx painting, stainless steel synchronized with marble), with wines flowing naturally courtesy of the excellent Thomas Boogaerts (ex-Couvert Couvert and Quartz). A belle équipe indeed… · Mezca Lita

Ate: Crisp bluefin tuna tostadas with a kick of smoked chili mayo and basil blossoms; a divine lobster salad with infused tomato water and summer berries; and saddle of lamb cooked two ways, teased with harissa and confit peppers.

Price: Sharing plates €12-35 (allow two to three per person), desserts €9-12.