From small fry to big fish! After a decade at the stoves of Le Dauphin, Mathieu Canet has a new fish to fry – or rather, a cuttlefish to grill – at this dinner spot with a distinctly Bordeaux twang. The dining room may be on its best behavior (a mirrored wall, marble furnishings, white tablecloths) and the service a little (too?) chatty, but the chef knows just where to misbehave: at the table, which he covers with expertly executed dishes, from slow-simmered tripe to the eponymous casserons (baby cuttlefish). As for the bottles, patience: the wine list is still taking shape. · Edna Maude

Ate: A delicious fish soup (pollock, red scorpionfish and John Dory) served with generously oiled toast – perfect for dipping while chewing the fat with the chef; followed by a chocolate tart with raw-cream sabayon, in a dead heat with the fantastic saffron egg custard.

Price: À la carte €49-79.