Wong Kar-wai called, he wants his movie set back! After leaving her partner Artus Monat to renovate this once-shabby corner pizzeria, chef Mina Kande (ex-Double Dragon and Terre et Blé) has created a chic, Sinophile-inspired setting, complete with wood paneling, polished tables, wicker chairs and atmospheric lighting. With the bottle-popping Juliette Authier and Chinese chef Wen Wen (also ex-Double Dragon and Le Cadoret) by her side, the Aix-en-Provence native sends out delicious pan-Asian dishes with serious swagger. The night we went, the line-up included: tantalizing hand-cut steak tartare with white kimchi and fermented chili crisp, scooped into crisp lettuce leaves; haricots verts glistening in a peanutty tofu cream spiked with gochugaru (Korean chili powder); Sichuan-style mussels and fries glazed with yuxiang sauce (soy sauce, vinegar, garlic, sugar); tender skate wing doused in a mirin-rayu (Japanese chili oil) sabayon; and plump sweetcorn fritters stuffed with Bleu d’Auvergne and katsuobushi. The only weak spot to an otherwise perfect meal? The desserts: a basil-infused flan or tapioca pearls with peach, shiso and sesame brittle, both lacking the punch of what came before. · Folayemi Abimbola

FEELING THIRSTY? On top of being the hostess with the mostest, Juliette Authier also pours some rather fine natural wines: Muscat Petits Grains from Domaine Les Hirondelles in the Drôme (€6.50 a glass), Petit Prince, an Ardèche red blend from Domaine de l’Alezan (€46 a bottle) and Le Schlouk Des Geschikt, an Alsatian skin-contact wine (€43). Alternatively, there’s whey soda (€5.50) or iced lemon and wild grass tea (€6) – both homemade.

PRICE: Plates €12-24, sides €3-4, desserts €7-8.