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Mômes – Bande de Gourmets

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Take three sales mômes (French for ‘brats’): caterer Pascal Bénac, chef Jauris Gilles (ex-Table Sébastien Gravé) and wine lover Julien Fernandez; put them in a Basque space that’s had a facelift by interior designer Aurore Dehez (smooth concrete floors, a tiled bar, a pool-blue ceiling) and watch them play like children…. The other night, the €38 prix-fixe menu included some lovely beef tataki marinated in pesto and served with wasabi mayo and pickled onions; a vivifying scallop tartare with a carrot-yuzu cream and pickled butternut squash; flavor-packed Galician octopus in filo pastry, dotted with chipotle mayonnaise and smoked paprika… What came next? Flash-seared foie gras with a perfect oeuf parfait and artichoke mousse; a tender veal chop from Saint-Palais, perfectly cooked and cuddled amongst a red cabbage mousseline, with anchovies and fat polenta fries; before a trio of desserts (pear-praline, chocolate-peanut tart and butternut squash crème brûlée). Wowzers! // Gérard Roubeix

FEELING THIRSTY? A few natural wines: a Saumur Blanc from the Château de Villeneuve (€25 a bottle), a Bergerac orange wine from the Château Tour des Gendres (€24), a Côtes-du-Rhône red from Gramenon (€35)…. And make sure not to miss the house cocktails, like the Carda-Mômes (G’Vine gin, cardamom infusion, lime, maple syrup – €10).
PRICE: Set menus €26-32 (weekday lunch), dinner €38 (five appetizers, one main, three desserts – dinner and lunch on the weekends).

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover
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