Ready, set, grill! A stone’s throw from République, the impressive blonde wood facade of Ossek Garden gives way to a temple to bulgogi, where Madame Feng eagerly ignites appetites for traditional Korean barbecue and side dishes. At lunchtime, we warmed up our chopsticks with: flavorful chicken gyoza that were crispy on the outside and tender on the inside; chunks of silky tofu drizzled in garlicky chili oil; quality kimchi; and a tender shrimp and chive pancake. Before a meat-lovers banquet around the table-top grills, featuring orgasmic strips of beef bathed in their juices and a sesame seed-chili-yellow onion marinade, or the more banal slices of pork belly which get glazed in ssamjang sauce – a spicy soy paste. To go with all that? A choreography of small plates, including dried fingerling, pickled turnips, caramelized lotus root, button mushrooms, wakame seaweed… All served in generous portions, which overshadow the more traditional desserts – nougat with sesame seeds, litchi in syrup, red bean paste cakes stuffed with sticky rice. // Zoé Deray
FEELING THIRSTY? A large selection of rice wines infused with fruit (jujube, longan, kumquat… €5 for 40 ml), along with bekseju (€16 a bottle), soju (€14.50) or cinnamon juice (€3 a can).
PRICE: Appetizers €8-16, mains €17-48, BBQ meats €20-58, set menu €12.90 to €18 (miso soup + small appetizer + main, weekdays at lunch).
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